Annual, biennial, even perennial in mild climates, the tetragone – Tetragonia tetragonoïdes from its clever name – tolerates drought well, and many gardeners adopt it to replace spinach which, in the middle of summer, suffers from the heat. It is nicknamed “New Zealand spinach”, given its origin and its taste similar to that of this vegetable. Fleshy, almost fatty, triangular, the entire leaves of the tetragon can measure 10 cm or even 15 cm long.
The small green flowers, located in the leaf axils, solitary, without petals, bloom in July. The large black seeds, pointed on one side, wide on the other, end in crowned points. They are enclosed in a hard fruit equipped with sort of small horns. Prolific, they reseed so easily, without always freezing in winter, that the following year sustainability is assured, thanks to spontaneous sowing! All that remains is to clarify. The ideal is to abandon a small piece of the vegetable garden to this beautiful and good invader. It needs space, because a plant can reach 1 m in all directions: just one foot, and the ground is covered over a good area…
The tetragone likes the sun, a soil rich in humus, light, deep, but when I meet it wild, naturalized – like last week, where I saw a beautiful station by the sea, in Côtes-d’Armor, I lose my certainties, because it sometimes grows in sand, or even stones. If you wish to adopt it, wait until May, until the earth has warmed up. Place 3 to 4 seeds in pockets every 70 cm, staggered. To encourage branching and leaf growth, pinch the flower stalk as soon as it appears, then pinch the ends of the stems when harvesting. The leaves are eaten from July to November, or even in the middle of winter if it is not cold.
His story
If the horned tetragon is often classified as a forgotten vegetable, it is simply because it is little known to the general public, as it is rarely found on market stalls. On the other hand, vegetable garden enthusiasts have never stopped cultivating it, especially in regions with a warm climate, since the 19th century when it was part of eating habits in France. Native to New Zealand and the many small neighboring islands of the South Pacific, it was part of the traditional diet of the Maori and other indigenous peoples.
For our health
In dietetics, the tetragon has all the qualities. It is rich in fiber and water. Containing few calories, it delights people who pay attention to their figure, especially since it
promotes intestinal transit. Its vitamin C content strengthens and tones the body. Rich in mineral salts in good quantities, the horned tetragon also contains vitamins PP, B1 and B2 and C. Less concentrated in oxalic acid than spinach, it allows people suffering from rheumatism to adopt it without restriction
In the kitchen
The tetragon is eaten raw when the leaves are very young – or cooked. If its taste is often compared to spinach, it is correct when cooked: the flavor is quite similar although more iodized. On the other hand, when tasted raw, the difference comes above all from the texture, more crunchy and oily – a bit like glacial ficoid – with little hairs which pleasantly tickle the tongue.
Raw, it can be enjoyed alone or garnished with salads. The marriage of its sweetness with the acidity of the tomato and a few chopped sorrel leaves, drizzled with a hint of oil is always successful.
Cooked, it is made into a gratin, sautéed, just thrown in water for a few minutes, then drained and seasoned with salted butter and a hint of garlic. A pan-fried dish, with sliced onions and browned smoked bacon, serves as a complete dish, especially if you add soft-boiled eggs. It also goes perfectly well with fish and white meats.
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► Recipe: the tetragon and its carrot balls
The tetragon and its carrot balls. / Noémie Vialard
1 large salad bowl of horned tetragon leaves, with young and tender stems
2 carrots
1 onion
2 cloves of garlic
Fresh ginger
Cumin seeds
Parmesan
Pepper, salt
Olive oil
Wash and peel the carrots. Keep a small piece for decoration. Cut them into slices and throw them into boiling salted water.
Wash the tetragon and drain it. Save some pretty leaves. Brown the onion and the minced garlic in the olive oil, add the roughly chopped tetragon. Salt, pepper. Let it cook over low heat for about 15 minutes, until it is tender.
When the carrots are cooked, drain them, mash them, soften this puree with 2 or 3 tbsp. to s. olive oil. Add 1 tsp. to c. cumin seeds and 2 cm of chopped fresh ginger, salt and pepper. Stir. Leave to cool, then form half-balls using a Parisian spoon. Reserve in the fridge.
When the tetragon is ready, divide into two parts. Place each one in an oiled ramekin and pack firmly. Leave to cool. 10 minutes before serving, put the ramekins in the freezer to make unmolding easier. Serve on a plate: unmold each ramekin in the center.
Pour a tsp. to s. olive oil on top. Sprinkle with parmesan shavings. Decorate the plate with the raw tetragon leaves, then arrange the carrot balls. Add some confetti cut from the small piece of raw carrot, reserved. Serve immediately.