Beware of danger! The French authorities have issued an alert on the risks incurred when using so-called Brazilian straightening hair products containing glyoxylic acid. It is a “potentially toxic” cosmetic ingredient because it can cause acute kidney failure, said the authorities, who are investigating several cases.
At the origin of this alert, “four cases of acute renal failure, linked to the use of different hair products containing glyoxylic acid”, were identified in France by the National Health Security Agency. food (Anses), according to a press release.
From the scalp to the blood
“Three people poisoned between January and August 2024 recovered following treatment” and “the last person is still hospitalized,” indicates the agency. The latter therefore decided to launch an assessment of the renal toxicity of glyoxylic acid in hair application. All four cases occurred after applying a straightening product in a hair salon.
When glyoxylic acid “passes into the bloodstream through the scalp”, it can “transform into oxalate crystals” of calcium, which will cause kidney damage, explained to AFP Dr Juliette Bloch, director of health alerts and vigilance at ANSES.
Many other undetected cases?
“It is very likely that other cases have gone under the radar. Sometimes the person will go drinking and the crystals will wash away, so it will go unnoticed. And even if there have been kidney failures diagnosed within hours, the person may not make the connection,” she continued. “The point of our alert is that people think about it,” she warns again.
As a precaution, the General Directorate for Competition, Consumption and Fraud Repression (DGCCRF) and the Ministry of Health (DGS) advise hairdressing salons and individuals not to use these products and cosmetic product businesses to sell them, while awaiting the conclusions of the ANSES expertise which will be published at the end of 2024. Depending on the result, ANSES could propose an evolution of the European rules governing the use of the substance, “not restricted today in cosmetic products.
What should you do if there are signs of kidney failure?
In June, the Academy of Medicine recommended, in view of scientific articles, to “disseminate warning and information messages to health professionals, hairdressing salons and cosmetic product businesses”.
If there are signs of kidney failure (abdominal or lower back pain, nausea and/or vomiting) a few hours after applying a hair product containing glyoxylic acid, you should “seek prompt medical attention or call a poison control center.” » by mentioning this use, concludes ANSES.